Pre-finished internal doors
A pre-finished door has had its final finish applied in the factory, under controlled conditions, and arrives ready to hang. It removes several days of sanding, coating and drying from the job, and the factory finish is usually more even than one applied in a dusty room. It costs more, and site damage is harder to touch in.
Pre-finished is the single biggest time saving available on a door order, and it is routinely confused with primed, which is close to the opposite.
Primed means the undercoat is done and the topcoats are yours. Pre-finished means the whole thing is done. On a five-door landing that is the difference between an afternoon and a fortnight of evenings.
Showing all 5 doors
Prices are guide prices including VAT, taken from the smallest size and plainest finish of each door. They are not an offer to sell — confirm the price for your size and finish before ordering.
White Flush Internal Door
A plain flat door with nothing to catch dust or argue with the architecture — the honest choice for a modern house, a utility room, or anywhere the door is not the point.
- Primed MDF
- 35mm
Guide price from£38.40inc VAT11 sizesWhite Primed Shaker Door
Clean two-panel shaker lines in a white primed finish — the most forgiving door in a mixed-age house, and the cheapest way to make a landing look deliberate.
- Primed MDF
- 35mm
Guide price from£50.40inc VAT11 sizesOak 4-Panel Internal Door
A traditional four-panel oak door with raised mouldings — the default choice for Victorian and Edwardian houses, and the one most people picture when they say "oak door".
- Engineered oak
- 35mm
Guide price from£106.80inc VAT11 sizesOak Glazed 3-Light Door
Three glazed lights in an oak frame — for borrowing daylight from a hallway into a room that has none of its own.
- Engineered oak
- 35mm
Guide price from£150inc VAT7 sizesOak Cottage Ledged Door
Vertical boards with ledges across the back — a genuine cottage door for period properties, where a moulded panel door would look wrong.
- Solid oak
- 35mm
Guide price from£198inc VAT4 sizes
No doors match these filters yet. Clear a filter to widen the search.
Pre-finished against finishing on site
| Pre-finished | Unfinished or primed | |
|---|---|---|
| Time on site | None beyond hanging | Several days per batch, mostly drying |
| Finish quality | Even, applied in a controlled environment | As good as your conditions and your patience |
| Colour and sheen control | Whatever the maker offers | Total — match anything already in the house |
| Cost | Higher | Lower, before you count paint and your time |
| Repairing a knock | Harder to match | Easy, you have the tin |
| Cut edges after trimming | Need sealing by you before hanging | Sealed with everything else |
The catch: trimming a pre-finished door
Almost every door needs a little taken off somewhere. The moment you plane a pre-finished door you have exposed raw core on that edge, and that edge now needs sealing before the door goes up. It is a five-minute job and it is skipped constantly, usually on the bottom edge where nobody will look.
Unsealed edges take up moisture. On a bathroom or a kitchen door that is how a leaf starts to swell at the bottom corner a year later.
If you go unfinished instead
Unfinished doors are the right call when there is existing joinery to match, or when you want a specific oil or a specific white rather than the one on offer. The discipline is the same either way.
- Store the doors flat and indoors, in the room they will live in, for a few days before you finish them.
- Hang dry, mark, trim, then take the door back down.
- Seal all six surfaces, including the top and bottom edges — this is usually a condition of the manufacturer’s guarantee.
- Follow the coat count and drying times in the instructions supplied with the door.
- Fit ironmongery only once the finish has cured, not just dried.