# Pre-finished internal doors, ready to hang | Threshen > Pre-finished doors arrive oiled, lacquered or painted, ready to hang. What that means, how it compares with finishing on site, and the catch. Source: https://example.co.uk/internal-doors/pre-finished --- # Pre-finished internal doors A pre-finished door has had its final finish applied in the factory, under controlled conditions, and arrives ready to hang. It removes several days of sanding, coating and drying from the job, and the factory finish is usually more even than one applied in a dusty room. It costs more, and site damage is harder to touch in. **In this range** 58 doors **Guide price from** £38.40 inc VAT Pre-finished is the single biggest time saving available on a door order, and it is routinely confused with primed, which is close to the opposite. Primed means the undercoat is done and the topcoats are yours. Pre-finished means the whole thing is done. On a five-door landing that is the difference between an afternoon and a fortnight of evenings. 58 doors Prices are guide prices including VAT, taken from the smallest size and plainest finish of each door. They are not an offer to sell — confirm the price for your size and finish before ordering. - White Flush Internal Door Where the door is not meant to be the point, this one has nothing to catch dust or argue with the architecture. A plain flat face, honestly priced. Primed MDF - 35mm ### White Primed Shaker Door Clean two-panel shaker lines in a white primed finish. The most forgiving door in a mixed-age house, and the cheapest way to make a landing look deliberate. - Primed MDF - 35mm ### White Primed 4-Panel Door The Victorian four-panel arrangement in painted MDF: two short panels above the lock rail, two tall below, with moulding worked around each one. The period shape without oak. - Primed MDF - 35mm ### White Primed Ladder Door Horizontal panels in white primed MDF. The cheapest way to get the contemporary ladder shape, and the one most new-build refits end up buying. - Primed MDF - 35mm ### White Primed 6-Panel Door Six panels in the Victorian arrangement, moulded into a white primed face. Two short at the top, two in the middle, two long below. - Primed MDF - 35mm ### White Solid Core Flush Door The same flat painted face as a hollow core flush door, with a dense infill behind it: it sounds solid, takes a latch anywhere on the edge, and shuts with some weight to it. - Solid core primed MDF - 35mm ### White Solid Core Shaker Door Flat recessed panels, square edges, and a solid core underneath. The shaker shape specified properly, for the doors that get opened twenty times a day rather than twice. - Solid core primed MDF - 35mm ### Grey Painted Shaker Door The shaker shape in a painted mid grey rather than white. The quietest way to have coloured doors without committing the whole house to a colour. - Painted grey MDF - 35mm ### White Primed Glazed Door Three glazed lights in a painted frame, for pulling daylight into an internal hallway or a landing that goes dark by mid-afternoon, without paying oak prices to do it. - Primed MDF - 35mm ### White Solid Core 4-Panel Door A moulded four-panel door with a solid core: the period shape in painted joinery, built heavy enough for a main reception room rather than a box room. - Solid core primed MDF - 35mm ### Oak Flush Internal Door In a house with no mouldings anywhere else, a panelled door looks staged. This is the timber alternative: an uninterrupted oak face, no panels. - Engineered oak - 35mm ### Grey Painted Ladder Door Horizontal ladder panels in a painted mid grey, supplied finished. For a house where the joinery is grey and the white version would be the odd one out. - Painted grey MDF - 35mm ### White Primed 4-Light Door Four tall lights in a white primed leaf. The most daylight for the least money in this catalogue. - Primed MDF - 35mm ### Grey Painted Flush Door A completely plain grey leaf. No panel, no moulding, no line on it, in the colour people choose when white feels stark. - Painted grey MDF - 35mm ### Oak Shaker Door Flat recessed panels with square edges in engineered oak. The quietest way to have timber doors in a house built after about 1930 without them reading as period. - Engineered oak - 35mm ### White Primed 10-Light Door Ten small lights, two across and five down, over the upper two-thirds of a painted leaf. The most glass this catalogue puts in a single internal door. - Primed MDF - 35mm ### Oak 4-Panel Internal Door The traditional four-panel oak door, with raised mouldings. It is what most people are picturing when they say they want oak doors, and what Victorian and Edwardian houses were built with. - Engineered oak - 35mm ### White Primed Cottage Door A boarded door face in painted joinery, for a cottage or a barn conversion where the timber was always going to be painted and solid oak is more than the room needs. - Solid core primed MDF - 35mm ### White Solid Core Ladder Door For the bedroom or the home office, where a hollow leaf lets too much of the house through. Same ladder shape, solid core behind it. - Solid core primed MDF - 35mm ### Oak Ladder Door Four wide panels stacked one above the other with equal rails between them. Shaker detail turned on its side, and the door that makes a narrow opening look wider. - Engineered oak - 35mm ### Grey Painted 4-Panel Door The four-panel shape in a factory grey. A period outline without the period colour, which is the combination most Victorian terraces are being refitted with. - Painted grey MDF - 35mm ### Oak 6-Panel Internal Door The six-panel Victorian arrangement in engineered oak, for a period house with the ceiling height to carry it. - Engineered oak - 35mm ### Walnut Flush Internal Door An uninterrupted walnut face, no panels and no mouldings, on the plainest door shape there is. Darker and warmer than oak. - Engineered walnut - 35mm ### White Solid Core Glazed Door Three lights over a solid lower panel in a painted frame, with a dense core in the stiles and rails. A glazed door that still feels like a door in the hand. - Solid core primed MDF - 35mm ### White Solid Core 6-Panel Door The six-panel outline on a solid core, primed. A period shape that closes with weight instead of sounding like a cupboard. - Solid core primed MDF - 35mm ### Oak Solid Core Flush Door A flat oak face over a dense core. The upgrade that is felt rather than seen: heavier in the hand, quieter through the wall, and it takes ironmongery anywhere on the edge. - Engineered oak, solid core - 35mm ### Grey Painted 6-Panel Door Six moulded panels in a factory grey. The most traditional outline in the least traditional colour, for a period house being brought forward rather than back. - Painted grey MDF - 35mm ### Oak Solid Core Shaker Door Square-edged shaker panels in oak with a solid core behind them. This is the specification people are describing when they say they want the doors to feel expensive. - Engineered oak, solid core - 35mm ### Oak Solid Core 4-Panel Door The four-panel Victorian arrangement in oak with a dense core, for the main rooms of a period house where the door is part of the room rather than a way out of it. - Engineered oak, solid core - 35mm ### White Solid Core 10-Light Door Built for an opening that gets used constantly, where a lighter glazed door would eventually rattle. Ten lights on a solid-core primed leaf. - Solid core primed MDF - 35mm ### Oak Glazed 3-Light Door For a room with no window of its own, three glazed lights in an oak frame will borrow daylight from the hallway. - Engineered oak - 35mm ### Grey Painted Glazed Door Getting daylight through a run of grey doors without breaking the scheme with a white one. Three lights, grey frame. - Painted grey MDF - 35mm ### White Primed Shaker Pair The cheapest way to make a knocked-through room feel like two rooms again when you want it to. Two plain shaker leaves in one opening, primed. - Primed MDF - 35mm ### Oak Solid Core Ladder Door The horizontal-panelled ladder shape on a solid core. Heavier to hang, quieter to live with, and the version to buy for a room you actually want to shut. - Engineered oak, solid core - 35mm ### Oak Boarded Cottage Door A boarded oak face built on an engineered core. You get the cottage look without the seasonal movement of a leaf cut from solid timber. - Engineered oak, solid core - 35mm ### Walnut Shaker Door Two square-edged panels in a dark walnut veneer. The plainest shape this catalogue offers, in the timber least likely to be described as plain. - Engineered walnut - 35mm ### Grey Painted 4-Light Door Four tall lights running most of the height of a grey leaf. More glass than the three-light, and a taller, narrower proportion than the ten. - Painted grey MDF - 35mm ### Walnut Ladder Door Horizontal panels stacked up the leaf in dark walnut. The most contemporary shape in the darkest timber, and the pairing most often specified in a new-build refit. - Engineered walnut - 35mm ### Oak 4-Light Door Four long lights down an oak leaf. The vertical alternative to the three-light, and the better one where the opening is tall and narrow. - Engineered oak - 35mm ### Walnut 4-Panel Door The traditional four-panel shape with raised mouldings, in walnut rather than the oak it is usually cut from. - Engineered walnut - 35mm ### Walnut 4-Light Glazed Door Four square lights in the upper half of a walnut leaf, with a solid panel below. More daylight than a three-light door, more timber than a fully glazed one. - Engineered walnut - 35mm ### Solid Oak Shaker Door Shaker panels cut from solid oak rather than veneered onto a core: grain that runs through the timber instead of over it, and a door that moves with the seasons. - Solid oak - 35mm ### Oak Solid Core 6-Panel Door Six moulded oak panels on a solid core. The period shape, with the weight a period door would actually have had. - Engineered oak, solid core - 35mm ### Oak Solid Core Glazed Door Three lights in a solid-core oak frame. The heaviest glazed door in the range, and the one to specify where a glazed leaf is going onto an opening that gets used hard. - Engineered oak, solid core - 35mm ### Walnut 6-Panel Door The Victorian six-panel arrangement in walnut: two small panels over two long ones over two short. More line-work than any other shape here. - Engineered walnut - 35mm ### Solid Oak 4-Panel Door The Victorian four-panel door made the way the original was: solid oak throughout, with the mouldings worked into the timber rather than applied over a veneer. - Solid oak - 35mm ### Grey Painted 10-Light Door Ten panes in a grey grid, which is the industrial-window look done as an internal door. Painted timber, not bare metal. - Painted grey MDF - 35mm ### Oak 10-Light Door When a through-room loses its window to an extension, this is the usual answer. Ten lights in an oak frame, the most glass this catalogue puts in an oak door. - Engineered oak - 35mm ### Oak Cottage Ledged Door Vertical boards with ledges across the back. A genuine cottage door for period properties, where a moulded panel door would look wrong. - Solid oak - 35mm ### White Primed Glazed Pair Between a kitchen and a dining room, a single door makes the two rooms separate. Two glazed leaves meeting in the middle of one opening do not. - Primed MDF - 35mm ### Oak Solid Core 10-Light Door For the opening between a hall and a room that gets used hard. Ten lights on a solid-core oak leaf, and the heaviest glazed door here. - Engineered oak, solid core - 35mm ### Solid Oak Glazed Door Three lights set into a solid oak frame. The most expensive way to move daylight from one room to another, and the one that looks right in a house with original joinery. - Solid oak - 35mm ### Walnut Glazed 3-Light Door Three lights in a walnut frame, for the room off a dark hallway where a solid walnut door would take the last of the daylight with it. - Engineered walnut - 35mm ### Solid Oak Ladder Door A contemporary horizontal-panelled shape in solid oak. Modern lines, traditional construction, and the seasonal movement that comes with it. - Solid oak - 35mm ### Walnut 10-Light Door Ten small panes gridded across the upper leaf, with the glazing bars in walnut rather than paint. The strongest contrast in this catalogue between frame and glass. - Engineered walnut - 35mm ### Solid Oak 6-Panel Door Six panels cut from solid oak rather than veneered. This is the closest thing here to the door a Victorian house was built with, and it behaves like one. - Solid oak - 35mm ### Oak Shaker Pair For a dining room you want to shut properly rather than look through. Two solid shaker leaves fill one opening, unglazed. - Engineered oak - 35mm ### Oak Glazed Pair A glazed oak pair for a wide opening. The most timber and the most glass in one place that this catalogue offers, and the most expensive thing on it. - Engineered oak - 35mm No doors match these filters yet. Clear a filter to widen the search. ## Pre-finished against finishing on site | | Pre-finished | Unfinished or primed | | --- | --- | --- | | Time on site | None beyond hanging | Several days per batch, mostly drying | | Finish quality | Even, applied in a controlled environment | As good as your conditions and your patience | | Colour and sheen control | Whatever the maker offers | Total — match anything already in the house | | Cost | Higher | Lower, before you count paint and your time | | Repairing a knock | Harder to match | Easy, you have the tin | | Cut edges after trimming | Need sealing by you before hanging | Sealed with everything else | ## The catch: trimming a pre-finished door Almost every door needs a little taken off somewhere. The moment you plane a pre-finished door you have exposed raw core on that edge, and that edge now needs sealing before the door goes up. It is a five-minute job and it is skipped constantly, usually on the bottom edge where nobody will look. Unsealed edges take up moisture. On a bathroom or a kitchen door that is how a leaf starts to swell at the bottom corner a year later. ## If you go unfinished instead Unfinished doors are the right call when there is existing joinery to match, or when you want a specific oil or a specific white rather than the one on offer. The discipline is the same either way. 1. Store the doors flat and indoors, in the room they will live in, for a few days before you finish them. 2. Hang dry, mark, trim, then take the door back down. 3. Seal all six surfaces, including the top and bottom edges — this is usually a condition of the manufacturer’s guarantee. 4. Follow the coat count and drying times in the instructions supplied with the door. 5. Fit ironmongery only once the finish has cured, not just dried. ## More internal doors [Back to all internal doors](https://example.co.uk/internal-doors)